An isolated village perched above a crumbling igneous rock that’s been constantly eroded – welcome to Civita Di Bagnoregio, the “dying city” founded 2500 years ago by Etruscans.
Today, a day trip to Civita Di Bagnoregio needs no more than a day to complete, while an overnight stay ensures a pleasant walk around this charming lost city where medieval buildings stay intact.
From a scenic viaduct roosted on a spine-like walkway overlooking the vast Calanchi valley to an ancient church left behind by sun and wind, this article will cover the best places to visit in Civita Di Bagnoregio and the three best ways to get there from Rome.
How To Civita Di Bagnoregio From Rome? Bus, Train, & Car
As the name suggests, Civita is a beautiful hamlet that belongs to the municipality of Bagnoregio. However, due to its exceptional location that’s easily eroded, the ancient town of Civita seems to be “suspended in the air” on misty days and you need to complete a short walk over a 300-meter viaduct to reach the entrance.
Let’s break down the three best ways to reach the village from Rome!
By Car
Renting a charter car on a day trip is the most flexible option, especially if you have a trustworthy driver who’s willing to wait on you with patience and provides insightful tips on where to start or which places to visit. A short ride from Rome to Civita Di Bagnoregio is only one and a half hours.
All cars park in the adjacent town Bagnoregio on an hourly rate basis. From there, keep going along the yellow ‘Civita’ to find the right parking lot.
By Train & Bus
Starting from Roma Termini Train Station, catch a high-speed train to Orvieto Scalo which takes just over an hour to complete. The other option is a regional train that takes nearly 90 minutes but this one departs from Roma Tiburtina Station.
After exiting Orvieto Train Station, look for the blue Cotral Bus that’s bound for Bagnoregio. It says “Orvieto – Bagnoregio” at the front so you won’t have a hard time recognizing it.
The bus parks outside the train station. Search for the Funicolare di Orvieto – Scalo on Google Maps and look to the left side of this station and you shall find the bus right away.
Make sure to check the timetable on the Cotral website, and opt for the DIRECT bus which only takes 55 minutes to reach Bagnoregio. Even if you’ve found your desired departure time, I highly recommend you show up at the bus station at least half an hour in advance to avoid last-minute changes. No buses are operated on Sunday.
As for where to buy bus tickets, look for the grocery store called “Bon Italy Bar & Food” as shown in the picture below. Round-trip tickets to Bagnoregio are available for sale here.
Once you arrive in Bagnoregio, the rest of the journey is mostly walking. The bus stops outside of the Piazza Esterzili Garden on the street of Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. From there, walk along the viaduct to reach the village of Civita.
Things To Do In Civita Di Bagnoregio
Civita Di Bagnoregio is barely a big town to visit, measuring less than 300 meters long and 200 meters wide. You can cover the whole town within four hours without any hassle just by walking. Starting from the scenic walk at the terrace of Civita di Bagnoregio Belvedere, you’ll slowly immerse into a whimsical collection of medieval stone buildings where gorgeous balconies are bathed in seasonal flowers.
The old washed-out stoned walls are blanketed with thickets of climbing plants while chic cafes and eateries are hidden carefully behind the alleyways.
Civita di Bagnoregio Belvedere
The famous terrace acts as the main entrance leading to the hilltop village, boasting a dramatic view over Civita and the far-flung valley. Little do you know that the terrace you’re walking on has been around since 1965 after the original viaduct was bombed by the Germans during World War II. At the end of the viaduct, you’ll see a short zigzag uphill road where cats roam free.
If you’re able to make it here early in the morning, don’t be surprised to blend in with the crowd of photographers seeking jaw-dropping shots of the medieval town slowly looming out of the fog to dance with sunshine.
The best time to hit Civita di Bagnoregio is in summer when the regional residents flush outdoors more often to celebrate the sunny days. When winter comes, it’s an absolutely opposite landscape when the whole town is soaked in a downcast, depressing look.
Chiesa di San Donato
San Donato Church leans its back against the main city square, boasting an awe-inspiring ancient architecture that stands the test of time.
Originally built in the 5th century, the church underwent a dramatic restoration in the 16th century. Today, this massive holy shrine draws crowds with its exquisite wooden crucifix and a collection of ornate side altars.
The interior structure is steeped in a simple beauty with a vaulted ceiling supporting a wooden truss roof, frescoes, chandeliers, and incense burners.
Is Civita di Bagnoregio Worth Visiting?
Despite the complicated means of transportation and uncertainty of the bus timetable, Civita di Bagnoregio is still worth a day trip if you’re based out of Rome when the sky is crisp. Though slowly collapsible from the edges, this well-kept medieval town is definitely a great getaway from the chaotic streets of other Italian metropolises. That being said, get there as soon as you can and you won’t come home disappointed.